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8 Khatraash: Lines, either diagonal or vertical Fig 8
9 Dordar Khurd: Broad border of embroidery on 2 ends
of the shawl, with a minimum width of 3 inches.
10 Bootidar: shawls with small motifs or bootees
11 Chaarbadam: four paisley forms
Motifs used in embroidery
Kashmiri embroidery motifs often include flowers, leaves,
fruits, birds, and geometric patterns.
Motifs
• Flowers: Lilies, tulips, saffron, lotuses, and more
• Leaves: Chinar leaves, which are inspired by the
majestic Chinar trees of Kashmir
• Fruits: Grapes, apples, mangoes, almonds, and Features of Kalamkari embroidery
cherries 1 Origin
• Birds: Parrots, woodpeckers, and kingfishers • Rooted in Andhra Pradesh, the term “Kalamkari”
comes from “kalam” (pen) and “kari” (work),
• Geometric patterns: Paisley patterns and other
geometric designs meaning pen work.
Designs used in embroidery • Traditionally, no embroidery was involved—only
painting using bamboo pens and natural dyes.
Common designs used in Kashmiri embroidery include
floral motifs like lilies, tulips, and lotuses, leaves like 2 Fusion with embroidery
the Chinar leaf, fruits like grapes and apples, various • Modern artisans often embellish Kalamkari
birds, paisley patterns, geometric shapes, and intricate designs with embroidery to enhance detailing.
combinations of these elements, often inspired by the • Embroidery is usually done along the contours of
natural beauty of Kashmir; popular embroidery techniques motifs like peacocks, flowers, mythological scenes,
include Sozni, Chain stitch, and Aari embroidery.
or tree of life.
Kashmiri embroidery designs
3 Common stitches used
• Nature-inspired: The most prominent designs are • Chain stitch
based on elements from nature, including flowers,
leaves, fruits, and birds. • Running stitch
• Chinar leaf motif: A particularly iconic design • Satin stitch
representing the Chinar tree, deeply rooted in • Sometimes, zari or mirror work is also added.
Kashmiri culture.
4 Materials used
• Geometric patterns: Alongside floral motifs,
geometric designs are also commonly used. • Cotton or silk fabric (hand-painted or printed with
Kalamkari motifs).
• Paisley influence: Paisley patterns can be seen
integrated into Kashmiri embroidery. • Embroidery threads like cotton, silk, or metallic
zari.
Kalamkari embroidery is a form of decorative needlework
that combines traditional Kalamkari art with embroidery 5 Colors
techniques to enhance the visual richness of the textile. • Dominated by earthy tones—indigo, rust, mustard,
While Kalamkari is originally a hand-painting or block- black, and maroon—due to the use of natural dyes.
printing technique done on fabric using natural dyes,
especially practiced in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana,
when embroidery is added, it results in a fusion art where
motifs are outlined or filled with stitches to add texture
and dimension. (Fig 8)
40 H & C: Hand Embroidery Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.6.27-37

