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8  Khatraash: Lines, either diagonal or vertical      Fig 8
       9  Dordar Khurd: Broad border of embroidery on 2 ends
          of the shawl, with a minimum width of 3 inches.
       10 Bootidar: shawls with small motifs or bootees
       11 Chaarbadam: four paisley forms
       Motifs used in embroidery

       Kashmiri embroidery motifs often include flowers, leaves,
       fruits, birds, and geometric patterns.
       Motifs

       •  Flowers: Lilies, tulips, saffron, lotuses, and more
       •  Leaves: Chinar leaves, which are inspired by the
          majestic Chinar trees of Kashmir
       •  Fruits: Grapes, apples, mangoes, almonds, and     Features of Kalamkari embroidery
          cherries                                          1  Origin
       •  Birds: Parrots, woodpeckers, and kingfishers         •  Rooted in Andhra Pradesh, the term “Kalamkari”
                                                                  comes  from  “kalam”  (pen)  and  “kari”  (work),
       •  Geometric patterns: Paisley patterns and other
          geometric designs                                       meaning pen work.
       Designs used in embroidery                              •  Traditionally, no embroidery was involved—only
                                                                  painting using bamboo pens and natural dyes.
       Common designs used in Kashmiri embroidery include
       floral motifs like lilies, tulips, and lotuses, leaves like   2  Fusion with embroidery
       the Chinar leaf, fruits like grapes and apples, various   •  Modern artisans often embellish Kalamkari
       birds, paisley patterns, geometric shapes, and intricate   designs with embroidery to enhance detailing.
       combinations of these elements, often inspired by the   •  Embroidery is usually done along the contours of
       natural beauty of Kashmir; popular embroidery techniques   motifs like peacocks, flowers, mythological scenes,
       include Sozni, Chain stitch, and Aari embroidery.
                                                                  or tree of life.
       Kashmiri embroidery designs
                                                            3  Common stitches used
       •  Nature-inspired: The most prominent designs are      •  Chain stitch
          based on elements from nature, including flowers,
          leaves, fruits, and birds.                           •  Running stitch
       •  Chinar leaf motif: A particularly iconic design      •  Satin stitch
          representing the Chinar tree, deeply rooted in       •  Sometimes, zari or mirror work is also added.
          Kashmiri culture.
                                                            4  Materials used
       •  Geometric patterns: Alongside floral motifs,
          geometric designs are also commonly used.            •  Cotton or silk fabric (hand-painted or printed with
                                                                  Kalamkari motifs).
       •  Paisley  influence:  Paisley patterns can be seen
          integrated into Kashmiri embroidery.                 •  Embroidery threads like cotton, silk, or metallic
                                                                  zari.
       Kalamkari embroidery is a form of decorative needlework
       that combines traditional Kalamkari art with embroidery   5  Colors
       techniques to enhance the visual richness of the textile.   •  Dominated by earthy tones—indigo, rust, mustard,
       While Kalamkari is originally a hand-painting or block-    black, and maroon—due to the use of natural dyes.
       printing technique done on fabric using natural dyes,
       especially practiced in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana,
       when embroidery is added, it results in a fusion art where
       motifs are outlined or filled with stitches to add texture
       and dimension. (Fig 8)












       40                H & C: Hand Embroidery Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.6.27-37
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